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Ribadesella – A seaside gem

October 21, 2024 by Leave a Comment

Ribadesella: A Gem of Asturias

Ribadesella is a small but captivating town nestled along the northern coast of Spain in the region of Asturias. Known for its stunning natural beauty, rich history, cultural heritage, and proximity to some of the country’s most scenic landscapes, Ribadesella is a hidden gem for travelers looking to explore the less commercialized but deeply authentic side of Spain. This charming town sits at the mouth of the Sella River, with its old quarter perched on the eastern bank and its newer sections stretching along the western side. Ribadesella is flanked by dramatic cliffs, sweeping beaches, and the lush greenery of the Picos de Europa mountain range. It offers an enchanting mix of nature, tradition, and history, making it a unique destination in northern Spain.

Ribadesella has a long and storied history that stretches back to prehistoric times. The nearby Tito Bustillo Cave, a UNESCO World Heritage site, provides evidence of human habitation in the area from the Upper Paleolithic period, around 18,000 years ago. The cave is famous for its prehistoric art, which includes detailed depictions of animals, human figures, and abstract designs. These paintings are considered some of the finest examples of prehistoric art in Europe and offer a fascinating glimpse into the lives of early humans who lived in the region. During the Roman era, Ribadesella was an important settlement due to its strategic location on the coast and its proximity to mineral resources. The Romans built infrastructure such as roads and bridges that connected the town with other parts of the Iberian Peninsula. Though much of the Roman presence has faded, their influence can still be felt in the town’s layout and architecture.In the medieval period, Ribadesella became a significant maritime hub. It developed as a fishing port, and later as a shipbuilding center, during the 15th and 16th centuries. The town’s location along the Cantabrian Sea made it an ideal spot for seafaring and trade, as well as a haven for sailors and explorers. This seafaring tradition is still an essential part of Ribadesella’s identity, with its harbor continuing to play a vital role in local life.

 

 

 

 

 

The Old Town

Ribadesella’s old quarter, or “casco antiguo,” is one of the town’s most enchanting features. Walking through its narrow, winding streets feels like stepping back in time. The cobbled streets are lined with traditional Asturian houses, many of which feature ornate wooden balconies and colorful facades. Some of these houses date back to the 16th and 17th centuries, when Ribadesella was a flourishing port town. One of the key landmarks in the old town is the Church of Santa María Magdalena. Originally built in the 13th century, the church has been modified and restored over the centuries but still retains much of its original Romanesque and Gothic architecture. The church’s tower is a prominent feature of Ribadesella’s skyline, and the interior contains a number of notable artworks, including a striking altarpiece and several religious statues.

Another highlight of Ribadesella’s old town is the Plaza Nueva, a lively square that serves as a gathering place for locals and visitors alike. The square is surrounded by cafes and restaurants where one can enjoy local delicacies like *fabada asturiana* (a rich bean stew), cider (Asturias’ famous drink), and fresh seafood, all while soaking up the atmosphere of this picturesque town. The Plaza Nueva is also home to a weekly market where local artisans sell handmade goods, fresh produce, and traditional Asturian products.

The Magnificent Beaches of Ribadesella

Ribadesella is blessed with beautiful beaches that offer breathtaking views of the Cantabrian Sea. The most famous of these is Playa de Santa Marina, a long, crescent-shaped beach that stretches along the town’s western side. This beach is perfect for a variety of activities, from swimming and sunbathing to surfing and kayaking. Its golden sands are backed by elegant early 20th-century mansions, some of which were built by wealthy Asturians who had emigrated to the Americas and returned to build grand homes along the coast.  During the summer months, Playa de Santa Marina is a popular destination for both locals and tourists. Its calm waters and scenic setting make it ideal for families, while the more adventurous can take advantage of the area’s favorable conditions for water sports. The beach also offers stunning views of the surrounding cliffs and mountains, which create a dramatic backdrop to the sparkling sea.
Just a short distance from Ribadesella lies another beautiful beach: Playa de Vega. This wilder, more secluded beach is known for its rugged beauty and powerful waves, making it a favorite spot for surfers. Surrounded by cliffs and dunes, Playa de Vega feels more remote than Playa de Santa Marina, offering a sense of tranquility and escape from the hustle and bustle of town life. The beach is also part of a protected natural area, which helps to preserve its unspoiled charm.

Outdoor Activities and Adventure

For outdoor enthusiasts, Ribadesella is a gateway to some of Spain’s most stunning natural landscapes. The town is located just a short drive from the Picos de Europa National Park, one of the country’s premier destinations for hiking, climbing, and wildlife spotting. The park’s jagged peaks, deep valleys, and lush meadows provide an endless array of trails for hikers of all abilities. Whether you’re looking for a challenging mountain ascent or a gentle stroll through the countryside, the Picos de Europa offers something for everyone. One of the most famous activities associated with Ribadesella is the annual *Descenso Internacional del Sella*, or International Descent of the Sella River. This event, which takes place in August, is one of the most important canoeing competitions in the world and attracts participants and spectators from all over the globe. The race covers a 20-kilometer stretch of the Sella River, from the town of Arriondas to Ribadesella, and is accompanied by a lively festival that includes music, dancing, and traditional Asturian food and drink.
For those who prefer a more leisurely pace, the Sella River offers excellent opportunities for canoeing and kayaking throughout the year. Paddling down the river allows visitors to take in the stunning scenery of the surrounding countryside, with its rolling hills, dense forests, and charming villages. The calm waters of the Sella make it an ideal activity for families and beginners, while more experienced paddlers can enjoy longer and more challenging routes.

The Tito Bustillo Cave: A Window into Prehistory

One of Ribadesella’s most significant attractions is the Tito Bustillo Cave, a treasure trove of prehistoric art. Discovered in 1968 by a group of young speleologists, the cave contains some of the most important examples of Paleolithic cave art in the world. The paintings, which date back more than 18,000 years, include depictions of horses, deer, and bison, as well as abstract symbols and geometric designs. The cave is named after one of the discoverers, Celestino Fernández Bustillo, who tragically died in a climbing accident shortly after the discovery. Today, the Tito Bustillo Cave is a protected archaeological site, and only a limited number of visitors are allowed to enter each day in order to preserve the delicate artwork. For those who are unable to visit the cave itself, the nearby Tito Bustillo Cave Art Centre offers a detailed and interactive overview of the cave’s history and its significance in the study of prehistoric art.
The discovery of the Tito Bustillo Cave has put Ribadesella on the map for archaeologists and historians, and it has helped to shed light on the lives of the people who inhabited this region thousands of years ago. The cave’s art is considered some of the finest and most sophisticated examples of Upper Paleolithic art, and it provides valuable insights into the cultural and spiritual beliefs of early humans.

The Culture of Ribadesella

Asturias is known for its strong cultural identity, and Ribadesella is no exception. The town celebrates its heritage through a variety of festivals and events throughout the year. In addition to the Descenso del Sella, Ribadesella hosts a number of traditional fiestas, including the *Fiesta de San Juan*, which takes place in June and involves bonfires, music, and dancing on the beach to celebrate the summer solstice. Asturian music and dance are also an important part of the local culture. The *gaita* (bagpipe) is the region’s most iconic instrument, and it is often heard at festivals and celebrations. Traditional Asturian dances, such as the *muñeira*, are performed at these events, showcasing the region’s unique folkloric traditions.Another key aspect of Asturian culture is its food. Ribadesella is a paradise for food lovers, offering a wide range of local dishes that showcase the region’s rich culinary heritage. Fresh seafood is a staple of the local diet, with dishes such as *caldereta* (a fish stew) and *bogavante* (lobster) being particularly popular. Ribadesella is also known for its *sidrerías*, or cider houses, where visitors can sample Asturias’ famous apple cider, often poured from a height to aerate the drink and enhance its flavor.

Ribadesella may be small, but it is a town of immense beauty, history, and cultural significance. From its prehistoric caves to its golden beaches and vibrant festivals, Ribadesella offers a unique and authentic experience of Asturias. Whether you’re an outdoor adventurer, a history buff, or simply someone looking to relax in a stunning coastal setting, Ribadesella has something to offer everyone. Its blend of natural splendor, rich heritage, and warm hospitality make it one of northern Spain’s most captivating destinations.

Here are some of the houses we have for sale close to Ribadesella:
Stunning, stone built mansion with swimming pool
Large, detached property with great mountains views

And here’s a link to the Asturian Tourism page about things to do close to Ribadesella

Filed Under: Areas of Asturias, Asturias, Asturias towns, Life in Asturias Tagged With: , , , , , ,

More than just an estate agent…

March 14, 2017 by

I’ve never liked the term ‘estate agent’. There are far too many negative stereotypes associated with it. I am not that person. So I was delighted to read this piece written by some Danish clients of mine and find that they had coined a new title for me. Ambassador? I’ll take that…. 🙂

Read their beautifully written story here – and get inspired!

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We are Signe, Tarje and Roar, Danes and recent homeowners in the rocky part of Asturias; Quiros. We met Mary more or less by chance after having spent half a year on the road with our baby Roar. Before that we were working as respectively an academic and a nurse, but we have always had that nagging feeling that fulfilling the ideals of society was properly not the road to meaningful and happy lives for us. The courage to do something about it, however, only came with parenthood. And while it does take a lot of courage to break away from your routine, we have learned along the way that the shackles don’t just fall off simply because you start to rattle.

We had an idea that we wanted to find a place in Catalunya – and start building towards self-sustainability. However, while Spain is littered with old ruins in need of love – finding a suitable one for sale turned out to be an insurmountable task. While we liked the experience, Catalunya seem to be hit hard by drought-spells and increasing heat – and didn’t really feel like home to us. With a few rock climbing images from Asturias, our heads turned west, and the lushness here immediately felt right.

It is only after you have gone through the process yourself you realize how much work Mary has put into finding properties suitable for expats. Mary calls herself an estate agent, but we feel a more descriptive title would be ambassador. Of course she runs a business, but you can immediately tell her main focus isn’t improving her own margins, but bridging the substantial cultural gap it is for northern Europeans to buy property in Spain.

One show of the abandoned village Eros – halfway up a mountain – and we were sold. We are now a few months in, the house seems to have stopped crumbling down – the once omnipresent brambles are starting to reappear less and less and we are making the first moves at making our house liveable and our garden edible.

 

Filed Under: Asturias, Asturias property, Life in Asturias, testimonial Tagged With: , , , , , , , , , ,

The Brexit Effect

January 4, 2017 by

flag of Europe

Brexit. The B word that is on everybody’s minds right now, especially any Brit who is living in or considering a move to a European country. It’s hardly surprising then that a number of clients have asked me to write an article on the potential effects of a British exit from the European Union. So here’s my two (euro) cents’ worth.

The first thing to say is that nobody really knows exactly what’s going to happen with Brexit. Least of all, it would seem, the British government. Just yesterday Britain’s ambassador to the European Union and one of their most experienced EU diplomats resigned amidst a row over his candid observations that Brexit negotiations could take as long as 10 years.

This thing could run and run. In the meantime, there’s really no point in getting bogged down in pointless speculation but there are some things that we do know for sure and which I’ll try and outline here.

I can tell you for one that currently Brexit is, somewhat counter-intuitively, serving to give a push to my core market as Brits rush to get themselves established in Spain before Brexit kicks in, in whatever format it ends up taking. Many people who may have been dreaming for years of a move to Spain have suddenly found their plans firmly shoved from the back burner to the front as they see the possibility of their dreams being snatched away from them by external forces.

For the Brits who are already here and legally resident it is likely that not a huge amount will materially change although there will almost certainly be more bureaucratic hoops to jump through.

Facts for residents:
– if you have been legally resident in Spain for ten years or more you can apply for Spanish citizenship. (Note, Spain doesn’t recognise dual nationality although Britain does.)
– If you are an EU citizen who has been a legal resident for 5 years or more you have the right to permanent residency without any conditions.

EU nationals living in Spain are required to register with the Spanish authorities (Extranjería). This resident’s document has no expiry date on it and many Brits are now keen to get over here and get registered as an EU resident as soon as possible in order to try and protect their automatic rights to live and work here. It is possible that the rights of those already resident before Brexit takes place will be protected, plus the sooner you get registered as resident the sooner you start clocking up years of residency, accumulating rights and moving towards a position where you could apply for permanent residency or citizenship. That being said, until negotiations take place over the rights of EU citizens in Britain and vice versa we can’t know for sure what the outcome will be.

The right to buy property and the right to own a business are enshrined under international law and so will not be affected by an exit from the EU. 

The process for purchasing property in Spain is exactly the same for non-EU citizens as it is for EU ones. I have sold properties to South Africans, Americans, Brazilians and Australians as well as Europeans and it has been equally straightforward in all cases.

Where rights do differ is in the right to residency and to work. If we take the worst-case scenario and imagine a full-on hard Brexit, where Britain gives no quarter, leaves the single market and completely rejects free movement of labour then we would be looking at Brits having to go through the same processes as, say, an American citizen in order to obtain the right to live and work in Spain.

The thing to remember is that Americans and other non-EU citizens can and do manage to get work and residency permits for Spain. It may be a convoluted and time-consuming process but it is do-able and there is help out there. Sites like Spain Guru provide great advice on the processes that non-EU citizens need to go through in order to live and work legally in Spain.  Check out their article on the main routes to getting a work-permit in Spain here.

As many of my clients are entrepreneurial types with aspirations to develop a business or work on a freelance basis here in Spain I know that the self-employment (or autónomo) option and that of owning a business will be of particular interest. Other routes to residency are also available however, such as a non-lucrative residency visa if you have funds to support yourself and do not need to seek employment in Spain – I have some South-African clients who now live here on this basis, for example.

So those are the worst-case, hardest-Brexit scenarios. As I said at the start though, we don’t know when or how Brexit will really happen and it’s not something that we have any control over. The bottom line is that if you really want to move to Spain then you need to find a way to make it work for you. And you will.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Filed Under: Asturias property, overseas property Tagged With: , , ,

Treasure Chests and Story Books

October 7, 2014 by

I love houses. Lucky really, given my job. I love the glimpses they give you into the lives lived within their walls, the histories created there and the views looked out upon over the years. Architecture, objects, landscapes all come together in a property to shape and illustrate cultures, communities and personalities.

Treasure chest, in the attic of a house in Quiros

Treasure chest, in the attic of a house in Quiros

With older houses in particular you’ll often stumble across pieces that speak volumes. Objects that make you want to run your hand along them, to hold that touch for a moment, pause and listen. As though it might be possible to feel history vibrate through a cool palm held on ancient hand-carved wood. Like this wooden chest that I found last week in the attic of a house in Quiros. What treasures had it stored down through the years?

Or these madrenas, found in an alcove of the same house. What paths did they once tread? Whose feet encase? When was it that they were shelved for the last time?

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A solid oak beam stands in the roof of the long-abandoned house. The light filtering through the wind-shifted, old-fashioned roof tiles falls upon it and highlights the rich, untreated grain, with not a single sign of decay or woodworm or any weakness upon it. A bang with your fist gives a reassuring answering thud. There is something deeply satisfying in the knowledge that some things really can withstand the test of time.

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If you fancy buying your own piece of history in northern Spain then take a look at this lovely traditional Asturian house set in a spectacular hill-top hamlet and ready to move into so you can start to write the next chapter…..

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Filed Under: Life in Asturias Tagged With: , , , ,

Photos from the School Run

September 26, 2014 by

Autumn is in the air. Finally, there is a fresh crispness to the temperatures and a faint russet tone is creeping into the woodlands. Sweet chestnuts are starting to appear underfoot. Soon amaguestu will be upon us. Families are slowly settling back into the school routine, having started back on September 11th after a lengthy 3 month summer holiday.

Once again we are slaves to the alarm clock. We must be breakfasted, presentable and assembled at the bus stop by eight thirty a.m.  And make no mistake about it, here in Spain eight thirty in the morning is pretty much right next door to the middle of the night. The Spanish are not naturally early risers.

Still, for me anyway, the pain of the early start is completely anaesthetized by the glorious beauty of the school run. As my son happily rides his first bike the 500 or so metres to the bus stop, I stride briskly alongside him, hand at the ready for the occasional quick shove on the steeper sections, my head raised to take in the views on all sides.

The photos below were all snapped on yesterday and today’s school run, on my iphone. Not a bad way to start the day, eh?

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If you fancy swapping your school run for one with a better outlook, check out this lovely family home with views to the Picos and woodland paths on the doorstep.

Gorgeous traditional house in idyllic location

Gorgeous traditional house in idyllic location

 

 

 

 

Filed Under: Life in Asturias Tagged With: , , ,

Asturian Still Life

August 31, 2014 by Leave a Comment

IMG_1612.JPG I took this snap on my phone yesterday as I wandered back from my neighbours’ house at twilight. It’s a bench that sits on the side of the road a few metres from our house. The Asturian countryside has a high bench to people ratio. In our tiny hamlet there is a total of 4 benches and a permanent adult population of 18. Benches are, of course, for sitting on. This one, as you can probably make out from the photo, is under a large fig tree and is the perfect spot to rest out of the heat of the midday sun and to while away half an hour or so, watching the world go (slowly) by or chatting to a friend. A few metres away around the corner in the plazuela (not quite so big or grand as a village square) is another, shadeless, bench; better suited to cooler winter days when there is nothing more nourishing to soul and body than to sit for a while with face upturned to the sun. But back to this bench. Alongside the fig leaf you see poking through the back slats is a well-ripened pepper and underneath the seat is a pair of discarded clogs, both indicators of its location next to the entrance of my neighbour’s huerta (veggie plot). This is the spot where she kicks off her ‘madrenas’ as she exits the field. These Asturian clogs, with their stilts for traction and to keep them out of the mud and their ample size to accommodate the wearing of slippers within, may be funky looking but they are eminently practical. (Before you ask, no, I haven’t got a pair. I haven’t *quite* worked up the courage yet. For now I’m sticking to wellies.) I’ll often see Rosi’s impressive harvest haul piled high here before she stores it in the barn or leaves it to dry under the eaves of the horreo. Often she’ll leave some fresh pickings on the bench for me to take for our tea. It sure beats the supermarket. If you fancy some bench-sitting in Asturias yourself why not take a look at some of the lovely country houses we have for sale in Asturias. With some land to work you’ll have a great excuse to buy yourself some clogs!

Filed Under: Life in Asturias Tagged With: , , , , , , ,